Sunday, 7 January 2007

Karla Buddhist Caves near Pune

KARLA BUDDHIST CAVES


Karla and bhaja caves are situated approximately 100kms from Mumbai enroute to pune. They are accessible easily from the Mumbai pune expressway. This weekend we planned a trip to karla caves and lonavla from Mumbai. As usual we started by early morning 6 on Sunday, after having a garma garam chai in lonavla, we continued to drive down the hill for another 10kms on the expressway, before we took the diversion for karla caves. Karla caves is located on the left side of expressway enroute to pune, and bhaja caves are 8kms away and is located across the highway on your right side. Both the caves dates back to 2nd century and are one of the oldest Buddhist architecture marvels in the world.
  
Off the expressway, as  you drive on the narrow roads, you can see the caves at a distance up the hill. One can find motorable roads till the foothills of the caves. We parked our cars on the designated areas and started a small trek up the hill towards the caves.  There are steps been laid to make the caves accessible for everyone and one can find shops midway to the caves too.


As we reach the top, we are welcomed by giant rock cut caves that are almost 60ft in high and looks like three storeys from outside. The entrance alone is around 50ft high and tells stories of its stand against time. There are huge pillars on both sides of the entrance. These pillars were damaged in an attempt to demolish them during times of war, still they stand tall against history for nearly 2500years.


The architecture of these caves belong to himayan era and they bear a simplistic look as part of their austerity.  There are fine sculptures on the walls on both sides similar where we see kings, queens and buddhas and life size elephants finely carved out of the rocks. As we walk inside we reach the main dome hall called "Chaitya griha"" which would be again 50ft high and there is a giant stupa in the middle upon which the Buddhist monks meditated. The roofs are supported by 2000year old wooden beams. There are pillars carved and lined up on both sides of the stupas giving the hall the richness of a palace. On top of each pillar there are beautiful sculptures of king and queen sitting on their elephant and one can also see fine engravings on the pillars.

There are stone carved staircase to reach the top storeys of the cave. Here we see many small cells for the monks to call it their room for meditation. The cells are too small just enough for a person to sleep.  Many more parts of the caves were kept closed and not accessible for common people. 


 Its awe inspiring to just even imagine the hard work and dedication went behind in carving these caves some 2500years ago…Outside the cave, near the entrance there is a small temple dedicated to Ekvira devi, where regular prayers are held and we can see good crowd turning up to the caves and the temples on weekends.

The bhaja caves are 8kms from Karla caves.  One needs to reach Bhaje village on the bottom of Lohagad mountains. From there a bhaje caves are accessible through stone carved steps. For those who are planning to take real mountain trekking, they can trek upto lohagad Fort on the top of the hill. The best time for the trek is during or after the monsoon rains, in september to enjoy the lush greenery everywhere. 

How to reach:
Karla and bhaja caves are easily accessible from mumbai and pune. One can plan to visit both Karla and bhaja caves on a single day. From lonavala one can take autorickshaws upto karla caves.
Nearest railway station is Malavli. Nearest Airport is Pune.

Best time to visit: One can visit the caves anytime of the year, though one can expect heavy rains between July to September in this region during monsoon.